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Cooperative Lake Living In and Around Dunes City, Oregon

Maintaining  Woahink & Siltcoos Lakes

 

Siltcoos Lake, the largest lake on the Oregon coast, is unique in that it has a very broad body. Siltcoos has an area of about 3,000 acres and 29.6 miles of shoreline of which 0.71 miles are in public ownership. Of the private shoreline, approximately 6.61 miles are already developed. Public recreation facilities are presently limited to a county park at Ada and a boat landing at Westlake. In addition, there are two hike-in campgrounds on the shore west of Booth Island. They are reached by boat or trail, starting at mile post 198 on Highway 101. Two separate parcels of land owned by the City will be developed for park use.

Recreational use of the lake is substantial because of its unique fishery value. It is one of the prime large-mouth bass lakes in the Pacific Northwest and also supports trout, sea-run cutthroat, black bass, colic, salmon, pan fish, and sturgeon. The Siltcoos River provides anadromous fish with access to the lake and its tributaries.

Siltcoos is quite shallow and exhibits complete mixing of waters at nearly all times, with subsequent uniform oxygen levels and generally higher nutrient and turbidity levels than most other nearby lakes. Brazil weed, a non-native plant, was introduced inadvertently and is now a pest. Algae growth is pronounced, giving the lake a characteristic green, murky appearance.

Characteristic of most Oregon coastal lakes, Siltcoos has low alkalinity and some enrichment with sodium and chloride from the ocean. In the winter months, the water is slightly acidic, while it is neutral to slightly alkaline in the summer. No problem exists with oxygen depletion.

The 787 acres of Woahink Lake are surrounded by 13.5 miles of shoreline. The lake, at it deepest, is 82 feet and is very clear. This and its attractive setting have helped stimulate a great deal of development activity in recent years.

Localized contamination problems may occur occasionally during summer months near specific out-falls and bathing-boating areas. There is a potential for contamination problems in lake arms draining agricultural areas and in locations where water turnover is low. Soil conditions in the vicinity of the lakes are such that runoff is likely to pose increasing problems as recreational and residential development continues unless proper procedures are followed.

'Water quality in Woahink Lake is considered to be very good. A water test completed in September 1985 by Honeyman Park indicated a good quality of water for drinking purposes.

There is no problem at present with water withdrawal volumes on any of the lakes. Most lakes retain a relatively constant level all year due to subsurface water infiltration. Studies on lakes such as Woahink show a high water turnover during heavy rain. This presumably holds true for both of the lakes.

The lakes have outstanding recreational and scenic values. As a result, they are under continual and increasing development pressure.

At present, there are no direct waste discharges into either of the lakes. There are no serious pollution problems, but the potential for such problems exists. The main threat is septic system seepage. This problem is particularly serious because many lakeside residents utilize the lakes for domestic water supply.

WOAHINK, SILTCOOS LAKES AND YOU

 

For many years Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes were a place to go for clean fun, and wildlife abounded. If we needed a respite from everyday tasks, we could go enjoy the lakes. Tourists came, and returned because of the beauty of the lakes. In recent years, Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes have taken on new, negative dimensions. Algae and unwanted weeds have started to dominate, fewer fish have been caught, wildlife is less in evidence along the shore, tourist interest is waning.

Nobody seems to realize what has been happening to the lakes, or how to control the over-abundance of weeds. People do not seem to realize that the declining water quality of Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes is greatly influenced by the activities of people trying to keep their lawns green and laundry white.

 

Today as you visit Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes, you cannot help but notice the effects of pollution. Weeds, algae, and other unwanted vegetation are overtaking the lakes, and will get worse (in the months ahead) unless we take measures to control the destiny of our lakes.

Chapter I

TAKE CONTROL OF THE LAKE'S DESTINY

Because we have control over the use of detergents, pesticides, fertilizers and the maintenance of our septic systems, we can help control the destiny of our lakes.

To understanding what is causing the quality of the lakes decline and knowing what we can do to help, will make it possible for us to assist the lakes in regaining their natural beauty.

PHOSPHATES ... the substance found in many detergents, fertilizers, pesticides, and a by-product of sewage is nothing but trouble for our environment.

An over-abundance of phosphates in the lakes are causing the increased growth of algae and aquatic weeds in lakes and streams, Water high in phosphorous becomes increasingly less hospitable for fish.

Aquatic life begins to run amok. What were once beautiful lakes become marshes, and eventually the marshes become land. This process is called eutrophication, and it is now happening to Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes.

STAGES IN EUTROPHICATION

The long term result of too many phosphates is a dying lake.

Don't let Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes turn into a marsh or dry land

Each time you fertilize your lawn, or fail to maintain your septic system, or use detergents high in phosphorous, you are polluting the lakes and contributing to their decline.

POLLUTION ... is an unending cycle. The heat of the sun evaporates water from the ocean, lakes, leaves, plants and wet ground. The water vapor rises in columns of warm air over land. Upon rising, the warm air cools and falls to the earth. Thus even polluted water and air continue to circulate.

KEEPING LAUNDRY WHITE ... AND WOAHINK & SILTCOOS LAKES CLEAN

THE PROBLEM . . . Phosphates from our laundry and dish detergents account for much of the phosphates which flow into Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes. Phosphates are added to many detergents as one way of preventing "the ring" around the collars and the general graying of clothes. Water containing a high amount of calcium is called "hard." When the calcium combines with soap, it causes a scummy substance which is deposited on clothes, turning whites brown. Phosphates remove calcium from clothes, making clothes bright, and whites, white.

While phosphates make your laundry bright, they also destroy the environment. We can control the destiny of the lakes. We do not have to use detergents with phosphates to get our laundry clean.

Check the labels on detergents to see if they contain phosphates. Experiment with phosphate free products. You will find one within your price range. There are many varieties, and many do an excellent job of getting clothes clean and bright.

LAUNDRY PRODUCTS GUIDE

For centuries, people did their laundry with a fat-and-alkali mixture known as soap. Trouble is, when soap and hard water mix, an ugly scum forms on both the fabric and washer. Today's synthetic laundry detergents eliminate the problem. But their components are a far cry from fat and alkali. Modern detergents work through the combined action of a number of key ingredients:

SURFACTANTS, or surface active agents, are dirt removers. They act much as soap does, emulsifying oil and grease and the dirt they bind, allowing them all to be washed away. There are hundreds of such chemicals, which can be classed as three types Anionic surfactants work best in hot, soft water and are very effective on oily stains and removing mud and clay. Nonionic surfactants are less sensitive to water hardness; they excel at ridding oily soils from synthetics at cool wash temperatures. Many liquids contain this type. Cationic surfactants are more common in fabric softeners and detergent-softener combinations.

BUILDERS enhance the cleaning efficiency of the surfactants by softening the water. Phosphates are the quintessential builders. (Phosphates, found only in powdered detergents, have taken the rap for spurring the growth of algae, which can eventually transform a lake into a bog in a process known as euthrophication. So they're banned in about a third of the country). Non-phosphorus powders may combine old-fashioned washing soda with extra ingredients to make up for the lack of phosphorus. Liquids like Wisk and Surf contain water-softening chemicals such as sodium citrate.

WHITENING AGENTS, also known as optical brighteners, are colorless dyes that give laundry an added glow in sunlight and fluorescent light, making garments appear a bit brighter.

ENZYMES help break down complex soils - especially proteins, such as those in blood, egg, or grass stain - so they can be more easily removed. Some people, however, experience skin irritation after using a detergent with enzymes. You can generally tell if a detergent contains enzymes by checking the ingredient list for substances ending in the suffix-"ase."

ALL-FABRIC BLEACH, a popular addition to powders, is not as good as chlorine bleach at whitening, but it's gentler. All-fabric bleaches - sodium perborate tetrahydrate is the most common - are safe on most materials and dyes.

The truth is, all detergents clean clothes. Most also brighten, remove stains to some extent, and work in a variety of water temperatures. While the products are more alike than manufacturers would have you think, there are some differences worth noting.

Liquid vs. powder- Liquids tend to be more expensive than powders, but they allow pretreatment of stains. Once considerably less effective than powders, many liquids now clean nearly as well. 

Formulation. Increasingly, detergents are being turned into "all-in-one" products - with color safe bleach, fabric softener, or stain fighting enzymes.

Concentration. Detergents come in regular and concentrated strengths. There are also super-concentrated products, with a container as small as a lunchbox holding detergent in some cases for 40 loads.

You don't have to pay extra for performance. There's little correlation between price and cleaning ability. You will pay more for the convenience of liquids or pre-measured packets. So will buying "green," although there's no evidence to suggest that so called natural brands are any better for the environment than regular brands.

Oregon has set limits on the phosphorus content of laundry and dishwashing detergents. All laundry detergents must contain .05% or less phosphorus and dishwashing detergents must be 8.7% or less. There are many national brands available that have met these requirements.

LAUNDRY BOOSTERS

If you've got kids, putter around the garage, or occasionally spill something at the dinner table, you're bound to encounter stains too stubborn for an ordinary detergent. Stain-fighting laundry boosters were created for times when the rag pile looks more inviting than the hamper. Sometimes they work, but most aren't much more effective at stain removal than detergent.

The products may contain many of the same ingredients as detergents: surfactants (cleaning agents); enzymes; water softening "builders"; and fluorescent dyes. Boosters come in several shapes and formulations:

Sticks. The easiest to use for small stains. They rise from a tube like lipstick does. You then rub booster onto the stain.

Liquids. These, too, must be rubbed in, which can be a chore for lots of stains.

Aerosols and pump sprays. These are a bit easier to apply. You douse the stain, then wash the gar met.

Powders. These are the handiest for treating a large load. Instead of applying booster to the stained area, you simply pour it into the washer along with the detergent. Powders can also be used for presoaking.

You may not need a booster if you lead a low-soil life and use a high-rated detergent. But it might be worthwhile to have one for the spills even the best detergent can't handle. Some products, for instance, can now remove used motor oil, a stain previously too tough for any detergent or booster. Products in stick form are the costliest; powders, the least expensive.

Regular detergent can be used as a spot stain remover, too. Just rub a bit of liquid detergent directly into the stain before laundering in the usual way. Some powdered detergents shouldn't be used as spot removers, according to their labels. For products without such a caveat, try this method: Combine a spoonful or so with water until it forms a paste, then rub it into the stain with an old toothbrush.

FABRIC SOFTENERS

Fabric softeners probably wouldn't exist without contemporary fabrics and modern laundering techniques. Laundry washed with soap instead of detergent doesn't need softening, but modern detergents clean fabric fibers so completely that they can leave clothes feeling scratchy. While line-dried clothes don't build up static synthetics, especially, are prone to accumulate an electric charge in a dryer.

By thinly coating the fibers of fabric with a waxy film, fabric softeners solve both problems. Lubricants in the softener let the fibers glide past each other, reducing wrinkling. They also separate a napped fabric's fibers and stand them on end, which makes a towel, for instance, feel fluffy. Humectant chemicals help the fabric retain moisture, neutralizing the static charge that would otherwise cause socks to cling to T-shirts and sparks to fly when you pull on a shirt.

Liquids. Fabric softeners originally came as a creamy liquid, often pink, that was added during the rinse cycle of the washing machine. Rinse liquids are still around, but today they're competing against more convenient products.

Dryer Sheets. Made of fiber or foam, these are impregnated with softener. You plop a sheet into the dryer along with the laundry. Heat releases the softener.

Detergent-softeners. These contain both products. The softener is present in the wash cycle, and the manufacturer relies on chemical tricks to make sure that it sticks around for the rinse. Single-use packets of detergent-plus-softener have detergent inside, which dissolves during the wash; the fibers of the bag, which are laced with softener, go into the dryer with the rest of the laundry.

Almost all fabric softeners reduce static; dryer sheets are particularly good. On the whole, rinse liquids soften better than other types. Detergent-softener combinations are the least effective.

Like detergents, softeners are heavily promoted in the supermarket. You can save money by buying what is on sale and clipping coupons. Buy dryer sheets by price. Some supermarket brands cost half as much as big name brands but soften about as well.

HAND-LAUNDRY DETERGENTS

Regular laundry detergents tend to be more alkaline and hence more irritating to hands and delicate laundry than the specialty products. Dishwashing liquids are very similar in composition to hand-laundry detergents, apart from optical brighteners, which give off a bluish color in sunlight or under fluorescent light and thus make white cloth appear whiter.

Using swatches of white silk crepe turned gray with a standard laboratory concoction of dust and simulated skin oil, we tested overall washing ability. No swatches emerged as white as they had been brand-new, but some were appreciably less gray than others. Stain removal, we found, generally mirrored cleaning performance.

One factor that sets apart most of the specialized hand-laundry products is their high cost per use. You can find better buys among the store brands. But according to our tests, all the dishwashing liquids cleaned as well as the best name-brand products.

KEEPING LAWNS GREEN ... AND WOAHINK AND SILTCOOS LAKES BLUE

We all prefer green, healthy lawns over dying ones laden with insects and weeds. Often, the condition of our yards is the only way outsiders have of judging our community. Sometimes it is the only way we have of knowing our neighbors. But unfortunately, the route to a green lawn is often mixed with the ill-fated concept of the greener the better. We sometimes choose to take the path strewn with fertilizer and pesticide to accomplish the goal of greener lawns.

You can help. By being aware of the possible harmful side effects of pesticides and fertilizers, and by following guidelines and experimenting with alternative ways to keep your lawn green, you will not only have a healthier lawn, but as a special bonus, you'll help keep Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes blue and have a great place for boating and fishing.

WHEN USING FERTILIZER:

• Only use as much as your lawn and plants need. More will just get washed away.

• Whenever possible use organic fertilizer. The chemicals in the fertilizer stick better to particles of leaves and other rotted material so less fertilizer will get washed away.

• The organic materials will also help sandy soil retain water.

WEED AND INSECT KII.LERS ... These products may help keep our lawns green and insect-free, but they also are poisonous and can harm helpful plants, animals and wildlife. When they enter Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes they stay active for a long time, help to kill the natural vegetation and promote the growth of algae.

PESTICIDES ... Are poisonous.

WHEN USING PESTICIDES:

• Only use according to manufacturer's instructions. Read and follow ALL safety instructions on the label.

• Only apply where you deem it to be necessary. Be careful to keep it off driveways, pavements, and other areas where it might be easily washed away.

• Carefully dispose of containers and utensils after applying insecticide so the excess material does not further damage the environment. Find a friend or neighbor who can use the excess products.

ALTERNATIVES TO PESTICIDES AND FERTILIZERS

TO KEEP YOUR LAWN HEALTHY, TRY THE FOLLOWING:

• Encourage insect-eating birds and other natural predators in your yard. Set up bird feeders, provide tree cover and protect them from cats.

• Use organic fertilizer. Rotted or partially decomposed organic materials have nutrients which can be used by plants and do not harm the environment.

You may even be using organic fertilizer without realizing it. Peat moss or bark mulch, which are often used to make yards look attractively unique, decompose slowly, releasing their nutrients for your shrubs to use.

NATURAL LANDSCAPING ... Let nature work for you. Here in Dunes City we are blessed with a beautiful environment. Take advantage of the wooded setting. Enjoy wild flowers in your own yard!

Natural landscaping is easy. It involves reducing the size of your lawn, or eliminating it completely by permitting the natural woodland vegetation to dominate completely. Or if you already have groomed lawn, it would entail creatively arranging native shrubs, trees, grasses and wildflowers to go wild in your yard.

Once these plants are in the ground, little care will be needed, and certainly no fertilizers or pesticides will be necessary.

OTHER BONUSES OF NATURAL LANDSCAPING:

• By strategically using plants and shrubs you can create a border, you'll not only reduce the size of your lawn, but increase your privacy.

• It will reduce the chores of lawn mowing, fertilizing, weeding, and watering while creating attractive home lots.

• By letting the natural woodland vegetation dominate, the falling leaves form a self-maintaining recycling ground cover. The whole system is solar-subsidized and self-perpetuating.

	KEEPING SEWAGE DRAINING ... AND WOAHINK AND SILTCOOS LAKES CLEAN   A SEPTIC SYSTEM ... is a sewage treatment system consisting of a septic tank and a drain-field distribution system. While your on-lot septic system provides your household with an efficient means of sanitary waste disposal, it must also be properly built, operated, and maintained, so it will continue to work well and remove most of the solids and pollutants from your household wastes and return the treated water to the ground. If you understand how a septic tank operates and know how to maintain it, your septic system should provide long-term sanitary waste disposal while keeping harmful pollutants from the ground water.
Household sewage, everything which flows down the drains in your household, flows by gravity into the septic tank, where solid particles settle to the bottom and form sludge. Greases and oils float to the surface creating a scum layer. Sludge and scum are retained in the septic tank, and only the remaining partially treated waste is permitted to flow into the leaching area where a network of perforated pipes or perforated concrete chamber allows the waste water to trickle down into the surrounding stone-filled area and then into the soil. The soil bacteria filters out many of the small particles which can cause disease or ground water pollution.
	A FAILING SEPTIC SYSTEM ... can cause household sewage plumbing to back up and raw sewage to flow into the yard. It can allow pollutants to wash into Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes, creating a public health hazard. If a septic system is not properly maintained, it may malfunction. Major failures usually announce themselves when the waste water breaks through the ground and the odor becomes unbearable. Less major failures are more difficult to identify and a system may allow pollutants to enter the ground water before it is realized.

WARNING SIGNS ... The homeowner can look for certain signs when the drain-field distribution is becoming clogged, and when failure may occur. These include:

• Sewage odor near the septic tank or leaching area.

• Slow running toilets and drains.

• Patch of bright green grass above septic tank.

• The formation of puddles of water above the leaching area following heavy water usage.

TO KEEP YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM FROM MALFUNCTIONING

Nobody wants a sewage overload in their backyard. It looks bad, smells bad, and is a major health threat, and is a hassle to fix.

TO MAINTAIN YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM:

• Pump it regularly, at least once every three years, and have it inspected for signs that it might fail. A routine pump-out costs far less than waiting for it to fail completely. The installation of a new septic system costs from $2,000 on up, depending on the slope of the property, soil type, type of system installed, distance to a well, ground water and the water table.

• Conserve water in the home. Excess water can overload the septic system.

• Keep slow-to-decompose and toxic substances out of your drains when possible. Cigarette filters, coffee grounds, fats, oil, paint and pesicides should never go down the drain.

• Avoid using a garbage disposal.

• Keep heavy vehicles off the leaching area where they can crush underground pipes and compact the soil.

• Don't plant deep-rooted trees or bushes over the leaching area; roots may clog or dislocate pipes.

 

Chapter II

LANDSCAPING

To Protect Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes Oregon

Information for Chapter II of this Document was provided with the help of the following:

William R. Rogers, Extension Agent, Lincoln County, OSU Extension Service; and Tom Cook, Associate Professor, Turf Management, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University; The Devils Lake Water Improvement District, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency Clean Lakes Program; and the OSU Extension Service Water Quality Initiative.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Myrna Branam, Word Design, Corvallis, Oregon ILLUSTRATIONS: John Stewart, Associate Professor, Landscape Architecture, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University

Becky Smith and Linda Mummey, Lincoln County Office, OSU Extension Service, Newport, Oregon

Honeyman Village Nursery, 85089 Hwy 101 (l'/2 miles north of Dunes City, OR)

Oregon State University Extension Service offers educational programs, activities, and materials - without regard to race, color, national origin, sex, age, or disability - as required by Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Title IX of the Education Amendments of 1972, and Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act. of 1973. Oregon State Extension Service is an Equal Opportunity Employer.

HOW THIS CHAPTER CAN HELP

The specific goals of this publication are to provide:

• Landscaping suggestions that will help protect the lake's shoreline.

• Information on plants that will grow well around Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes thus reducing shore erosion and nutrient input into the lake.

• Lawn maintenance practices that minimize potential pollution problems.

LANDSCAPING

There are many possible ways to effectively landscape the shoreline - each site has its own limitations and opportunities. The key idea in all approaches should be to remember the condition of the shoreline of Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes is important in maintaining the water quality of the lake. Natural or designed landscaping can reduce the flow of sediments and nutrients into Woahink and Sitlcoos Lakes. heavily vegetated slopes intercept the overland flow of water, holding sediments and converting nutrients into additional plant tissue. Extensive root systems in such areas also help to reduce the amount of shoreline erosion. Remember, Dunes City has ordinances to restrict vegetation removal in the shoreland area. Check with City Hall before removing vegetation.

Paved surfaces should be sloped so that run-off is directed into catch basins and from there into gravel-filled wells located far back of heavily vegetated shorelines.

Slope all paved surfaces to catch basins - clean out debris, oil and waste frequently.

 

Discharge storm. run-off into gravel-filled well - away from lakeshore and vegetated banks - for use where no storm sewers are available.

PLANTS

A shoreline covered with plants is effective in reducing nutrient and sediment influx into the lakes. Plants slow the overland movement of water and decrease the amount of erosion. Well-established natural vegetation provides an especially effective barrier. Removal of this barrier permits the direct entry of run-off into the lakes.

If the natural vegetation has already been removed and there is need to protect a shoreline, it is important that plants particularly adapted to the site be selected for landscaping.

WIND STRESS ... For plants to grow well in most lakeside sites, they have to be able to tolerate the stresses caused by wind. Wind can sometimes remove moisture faster from leaves than it can be supplied by roots. When this happens leaves or needles are completely or partially killed. Those plants that do survive are weakened and become less effective in protecting shorelines and less appealing aesthetically.

The Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes shorelines are affected by wind in different ways. Sites exposed to the northwest face the persistent summer breezes that blow when plant moisture demand is highest. Winter winds usually come from the southwest and may be accompanied by strong storms that can uproot trees and cause major physical damage. The occasional warm summer wind from the east rapidly dries out plant tissues. The same can happen when cold winter winds blow from the east, especially if plants are not protected by a blanket of snow.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS ... Other important information to know includes the plant's preference for sun or shade; whether it requires well-drained soils: whether or not it flowers; how large it gets; and so on.

PLANTS SUGGESTED FOR USE IN WOAHINK AND SILTCOOS LAKES LANDSCAPES

Nature provides clues about how plants adapt to windy sites. Low growing plants like kinnickinnick (Arctostaphylos uua-ursi) do well by hugging the ground and avoiding the wind's main force. Coarse grasses like European beach grass (Ammophila arenaria) require little water. Taller plants like the silk-tassel bush (Garrya elliptica) and the hairy manzanita (Arctostaph.ylos columbiana) have leathery or hairy leaves that reduce moisture loss.

Vigorous root systems are characteristic of many native plants, both evergreen shrubs like salal (Gaultheria shallon) and a few hardy deciduous species such as salmonberry (Rubus spectabilis).

Nearly all the trees and shrubs that perform well in windy sites near the ocean are evergreens. The regular northwest winds are simply too stressful for plants that have leaves and are producing food only during the summer.

The following list of recommended plants for lakeshore landscaping includes plants that have been observed doing reasonably well around Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes and in other coastal areas. Use this list as a starting point for lakeside landscaping realizing that each plant has its own special advantages or limitations. For example, rhododendrons are commonly used shrubs that thrive in coastal landscapes when wind protection is available.

TREES

Alnus rubra (Red alder)

Red alder is the deciduous tree best adapted to Oregon's coastal sites. It can survive windy areas but does need ample soil moisture. It grows rapidly to heights of 30 feet or more and has interesting gray-and-white bark. Its tiny cones make excellent Christmas decorations. Because red alder is so common, it is sometimes viewed as a weed tree. However, its foliage contrasts nicely with the generally finer, stiffer appearance of surrounding evergreens.

Cedrus Atlanica `Glauca' (Atlas cedar) and C. deodara (deodar cedar) These make striking landscape specimen trees. Atlas cedar has an open branching pattern, a pyramidal habit, and interesting bluish gray foliage. Although deodar cedar also has a pyramidal habit, it is most noted for its soft texture and drooping top, which resembles that of western hemlock. Its foliage, however, is far less dense than that of the native tree. Both species grow slowly, but can become quite tall, reaching 100 feet or more. They perform better away from the oceanfront's salt-laden winds.

IIex aquifolium (English holly) English holly, as well as some variegated hollies, makes a beautiful landscape tree when protected from wind. (In fact, there are some commercial holly orchards along the Oregon coast). These evergreens are either male or female; both must be present to set the beautiful red berries that are so popular at Christmas. The foliage is quite variable in shape and spininess. As a tree, English holly can grow to 50 feet tall.

Pecea sitchensis (Sitka spruce) Sitka spruce is a widely distributed native that withstands strong winds. It can be a fast-growing, well-formed tree in protected areas, but, like shore pine, it can form twisted, interesting shapes when directly subjected to offshore winds.

Pinus contorta (shore pine)

Shore pine, a native conifer is the most popular tree for windy coastal landscape sites. It can grow as a twisted, gnarled, windswept shrub or as a tall, stately tree. For aesthetic purposes, it can be pruned to look windswept and kept relatively small by late May candling (removing part of the new growth). The most common mistake when using shore pine is planting mature trees in windy, unprotected sites. However, since these trees do well once their root systems develop, temporary wind barriers can be effective.

Salix purpurea (purple osier) Purple osier and some other willows, such as native S. hookeriana (Hooker willow), are among the best-adapted deciduous shrub-trees. They rarely grow more than 15 to 18 feet tall and are well-adapted to wet, lakefront sites. S. purpurea has purple branches and can have leaves up to 3 feet long that look blue-green from a distance.

Tsuga heterpohylla (western hemlock)

Western hemlock is another long-lived native that grows to be a beautiful, tall tree in protected areas. Its lacy foliage and drooping top make it an attractive alternative to the more upright shore pines.

ADDITIONAL TREES

These trees also do reasonable well in exposed sites:

Calocedrus decurrens (incense-cedar) Crataegus sp. (hawthorn) Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet) Picea abies (Norway spruce)

Pinus thunbergiana (Japanese black pine)

Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas-fir) Slix sp., native (willow)

Sequoia semperairens (coast redwood) Thuja plicata, native (western red cedar)

GROUND COVERS

Artostaphylos uva-ursi (kinnikinnick) Kinniki.nnick is a native evergreen that is wide-spreading and produces small pink blossoms in March and April. Dry, seedy red berries, which reportedly are quite nourishing, appear in fall. Kinnikinnick prefers welldrained sandy or gravelly soil and full sun. However, it also grows in partial shade. To obtain a quick ground cover, set plants 18 to 27 inches apart. Kinnikinnick can be trained to hang over walls, and it performs well in extremely windy sites.

Ceanothus gloriosuss (Point Reyes ceanothus)

This ground cover spreads in a manner similar to that of kinnikinnick and produces a nice display of blue blossoms in April. An attractive, broadleaved everegreen, it grows to about 12 inches high with a spread of about 3 to 4 feet. Point Reyes ceanothus performs well even in stressful sites, like dry, windy highway dividers. Fragaria chileonsis (coast or beach strawberry)

This native ground cover grows well on dry, sandy soil and can be used as an attractive alternative to a lawn. It sends out runners that start new plants and is so aggressive it is a good choice for areas susceptible to erosion. Its small white flowers appear in spring, and its tiny, sweet berries ripen from May through July.

Genista lydia and G. pilos

These brooms provide nice displays of yellrnvgold flowers in May and June. G. lydia typically is prostrate, with cylindrical hairless stems. It has small narrow leaves about ¹/a inches long. G pilosa has intricately branched, graygreen twigs. It spreads rapidly over uneven surfaces and is an interesting ground cover. Both like full sun, tolerate drought, and perform well in windy sites.

Hedera helix (English ivy)

English ivy has dark green leaves and grows in the sun or shade. Like kinnikinnick and coast strawberry, it does not seem to be seriously affected by the salt-laden coastal winds. English ivy is vigorous - each plant can spread up to 100 feet. However, while this aggressiveness makes it an excellent choice for banks, it can also make it a pest. It si not unusual to see English ivy growing up tree trunks and eventually covering trees.

Juniperus horizontalis (creeping juniper)

Creeping juniper, along with many other juniper ground covers and shrubs, does well in windy locations. Some, such as J. h. `Douglasii' are especially good for dry soils and do not grow to more than 1'fz feet. In contrast, J. chinensis `Zbrulosa' (Hollywood juniper) has a twisted, upright form, can grow to 15 feet, and is effectively used against bare walls.

ADDITIONAL VINES & GROUND COVERS

The following ground covers and vines also do reasonably well in exposed sites:

Ammophila arenaria (European beach grass)

Hebe pinguifolia (Hebe) ?

Hypericum calycinum (St. Johnswort)

Juniperus sp., excluding J. onferta, J. horizontalis, or J. sargentii (juniper)

Lithospermum sp. (lit.hodora)

Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle)

SHRUBS

Arbutus unedo (strawberry madrone or strawberry tree)

The strawberry madrone, or strawberry tree, has broad-leaved evergreen foliage and round strawberry-colored fruit. If not pruned, it can grow to 20 feet and makes a nice foundation shrub where space is available.

Cortaderia selloana (pampas grass) Pampas grass is a giant ornamental evergreen grass native to Argentina. It bears long stalks (10 feet tall or more) with white or pink plumes and grows well in coastal Oregon's cool winds and fog. It also serves as a windbreak. Although pampas grass can be damaged severely during extremely cold wather, it generally recovers.

Eacallonia rubra

E. rubra is a shrub favored for use in hedges., It takes coastal winds well and produces nice displays of pink flowers and can reach 15 feet in height. When damaged by infrequent periods of extreme cold, it recovers quickly and often retains it full growth in little more than a season. Other species of Escallonia also are available.

Garrya elliptica (coast silktassel) Silktassel bush produces long male and female catkins on separate evergreen shrubs. If both are present, the female produces grapelike clusters of purple fruit. The term silktassels provides a good description of the unusal-looking, light green to yellow catkins, which appear during winter. The plant grows well in full or partial sun and can reach 25 feet. It makes an interesting and effective wind screen or hedge. Its leathery leaves reduce moisture evaporation.

Gaultheria shallon (salal)

Salal, an attractive native plant, is vigorous, provides an excellent bank cover, and grows well in sun or shade. Many homeowners clear salal off their properties and then find they have a hard time replacing it with other ornamentals. Salal can be trimmed as low ground cover or allowed to grow to 5 feet or more in shady sites. It provides excellent wind protection for more sensitive landscape plants. White to pink flowers appear in May and June and are followed by edible deep blue-purple berries in August.

Myrica californica (Pacific or California wax myrtle)

Pacific wax myrtle is a broad-leaved evergreen shrub that tolerates dry or sandy infertile soils. It can grow to 20 feet and normally has a rounded habit. Its yellowgreen leaves contrast nicely with the deeper green Escallonia or Arbutus.

Phontinia glabra (Japanese photinia) Japanese photinia is a dense broad-leaved evergreen that can be used as a screen at windy sites. It is attractive and can be a striking landscape addition. It reaches 15 to 20 feet, or can be pruned to a more compact height. Each spring a new burst of vigorous bright red growth appears, making pruning an ongoing requirement.

Pinus mugo mugo (mugho pine)

Mugho pine is a hardy, compact conifer quite suitable for use in parking lot planting strips and where visibility is important. It also is useful as a foundation plant. Mugho pines grow well in windy locations.

Rhododendron species

Rhododendron is available in an amazing array of varieties and colors. Some local gradeners use various species and varieties to extend their blooming season from February to August. These plants can reach heights ranging from 1 to 15 feet. Leaf appearance and size also varies dramatically. To successfully grow rhododendrons, protect them from wind whenever possible.

ADDITIONAL SHRUBS & SHRUB-TREES

The following shrubs and shrub-trees have also been observed doing reasonable well in exposed coastal sites:

Abelia grandiflora (glossy abelia) Arctostaphylos columbiana, native (hairy manzanita)

Aucuba japonica (Japanese aucuba) Baccharis pilularis (chappan-al broom) Berberis atropurpurea (twin berry) Berberis darwinii (Darwin barberry) Berberis wilsoniae (Wilson evergreen barberry)

ARE LAWNS & LAKES COMPATIBLE?

Leaving a buffer strip of natural vegetation along the lakefront is the most effective way to maintain the water quality of Woahink and Sitlcoos Lakes. However, some people have already established lawns that grow to the edge of the lake.

If properly maintained, these lawns can be effective in filtering out and speeding up natural breakdown of applied chemicals. The following information details maintenance practices and explains how you can minimize potential surface and groundwater pollution.

FERTILIZER ... Surface and groundwater pollution from fertilizers usually involves run-off or leaching. Recent studies in Pennsylvania found a precipitation rate of 6 inches per hour on 9 - 14% slopes was necessary to produce run-off and that the use of dense, uniform turf produced less run-off than thin turf. Given that leaching studies and other research also indicated very little movement of applied chemicals occurred, we know we can nearly eliminate movement of nitrogen and other nutrients into surface or groundwater if we observe several basic rules.

• Time fertilizer applications to coincide with active growth periods such as spring, summer, and early fall. Avoid heavy application of soluble nitrogen fertilizers in late fall or winter when grass is less active and prolonged heavy rains are likely to occur.

• In general, apply lighter rates of fertilizer more often rather than applying heavy rates less often. For example, 1 pound of soluble nitrogen per 1,000 square feet applied once a month poses less risk than 2 pounds of soluble nitrogen per 1,000 square feet applied every 2 months.

• Avoid over-irrigating lawns immediately after applying fertilizer. A good strategy is to irrigate your lawn thoroughly a day or two before you fertilize. After fertilizing, irrigate just enough to wash the fertilizer off the foliage and into the soil.

• Reduce the need for regular fertilizer applications by returning clippings to your lawn. Do not discharge turf clippings directly into surface water since these clippings are rich in nutrients.

• Leave an unfertilized buffer zone where turf borders the water when you fertilize lawns near streams, ponds, or lakes. If it is important to fertilize right up to the water's edge, use a drop type spreader; using rotary spreaders near water risks inadvertently applying fertilizer into the water.

WEED & INSECT CONTROL

Lawns that receive enough water to stay green support rich biological activity in the thatch and root zone area. Herbicides applied under these conditions generally stay near the turf-soil interface and are rapidly broken down by microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria. In well maintained turf, common broadleaf herbicides will break down and disappear in as little as two - three weeks. In droughty lawns these same herbicides may persist for several months.

Insecticides commonly used on lawns are tied up in the thatch zone and stay there until microorganism activity, chemical hydrolysis, or exposure to sunlight breaks them down. Because they are absorbed on thatch, leaching and run-off are rarely observed with these chemicals. In some cases, application of insecticides on a repeated basis stimulates microorganism activity and results in faster breakdown of insecticide.

You can minimize potential water pollution problems from herbicides and insecticides by observing the following rules:

• Maintain healthy turf via proper watering, mowing, and fertilization. This will minimize pest problems and create an optimum environment for the microorganism activity necessary for breakdown of applied chemicals.

• Be sure to accurately identify the pest problem and select the proper pest control option. The best solution may not require use of chemical pesticides.

• When using pesticides, apply accurately and at the lowest effective rate given on the label.

• Avoid direct application of pesticides to surface waters by leaving an untreated buffer zone near these areas.

Chapter III

FOR YOUR LAKE'S SAKE

Pristine lake waters add beauty and diversity to the landscape and provide recreational opportunities throughout the seasons. These waters are one of Oregon's prime resources, and it is in our own best interests to protect them. In undisturbed watersheds, nature purifies water flowing to lakes. When we alter watersheds to build houses and clear land, we impair natural purification processes. Moreover, as the number of people living in each watershed increases. Consequently, we must all assume responsibility for maintaining water quality by breaking old habits and taking positive actions which will limit the amount of phosphorus and other contaminants which reaches the lakes. This pamphlet explains how lakes are affected by land use and explains how homeowners can protect water quality for their own future and for generations to come.

WHAT IS A WATERSHED?

A watershed consists of all of the land which contributes water to a specific body of water. To outline watershed boundaries, connect the points of highest elevation around a lake on a topographic map. Water falling within this bowl flows by gravity, in streams and groundwater, to the lake.  Any substance within the watershed which can be transported by water eventually reaches the lake and affects water quality. Lake protection efforts often focus on shoreline land use, perhaps mistakenly creating the impression that only activities along the shore influence water quality. In truth, land use anywhere within a lake's watershed affects lake health.

INFLUENCES ON WATER QUALITY -

PHOSPHORUS IN NUMBER ONE

Residential homes introduce new substances into a watershed, many of which degrade water quality. In a developed watershed, water picks up salt, oil, gas, and lead from roads; pesticides and fertilizers from home gardens and landscaping, effluent from septic systems; and substances disposed of on the ground by homeowners.

The primary influence on water quality in Oregon lakes today is phosphorus. Phosphorus is a fertilizer. It promotes plant growth in lakes, just as it does in home gardens. In lakes, however, the crop is macrophytes and algae, rather than garden vegetables. The increased volume of water running off developed land contains much higher amounts of phosphorus than run-off from undisturbed woodland. This phosphorus comes from lawn fertilizers, road dust, grass clippings, yard debris, pet droppings, eroded soil, motor oil, septic system effluent, and other sources.

 

Every lake can utilize a specific amount of phosphorus without experiencing a significant change in water quality. However, if the amount of phosphorus entering a lake increases above the baseline and remains high over time, the lake will eventually become over-fertilized and produce excessive amounts of macrophytes and algae. Algal blooms turn water green, reduce water transparency, deplete the oxygen supply, and smell terrible. Ultimately, these blooms alter wildlife habitat, impair scenic views, reduce recreational appeal, and lower property values.

The above drawing shows typical sources of phosphorus and other contaminants generated by a home on a lake A significant source of phosphorus in some areas is caused by eroded soil as soil is washed into the lake due to lack of appropriate vegetation.

HOW DOES PHOSPHORUS GET INTO LAKES?

Most phosphorus is carried to lakes by surface water running into the lake after rainfall or snowmelt. Surface water picks up phosphorus from organic and inorganic materials, soil particles, fertilizer, road dust and other materials as it travels over the ground surface. This phosphorus goes directly into the lake unless the water transporting it slows enough to seep into the soil where phosphorus can be removed. When water seeps into the ground, organic matter and soil particles bind phosphorus and hold it for use by plants.

Groundwater can also transport phosphorus to lakes. The primary sources of phosphorus in groundwater are malfunctioning and poorly-sited septic systems.

LAND USE & PHOSPHORUS

Undisturbed Watersheds vs. Disturbed Watersheds

The amount of phosphorus carried off a piece of land depends on two things:

1) how the land is being used;

2) the amount of surface water running off the land.

the amount of phosphorus entering a lake from an undisturbed forested watershed is very small because the forest system exports little surface water run-off and thus little phosphorus. Water is stored in small depressions, seeps into the ground and becomes groundwater. Most phosphorus is recycled vithin the system by plants.

Dramtic changes occur when forestland is developed. Most of these changes directly or indrectly increase phosphorus output from the system. Without vegetative cover present to catch and store rainfall, more water reaches the ground quickly. Paved areas and buildings reduce the amount of soil available to abosrb water. Grading flattens small-scale irregularities in the forest floor and the spongy surface soil which stores water. As a result, surface water accumulates quickly in developed watersheds and runs off in much greater volume than it did prior to development.

Since moving water picks up sediment from the ground, the increase in surface run-off accelerates soil erosion. Erosion is a familiar sight, obvious in gullies carved by water running off roads and through construction sites, but less obvious on lawns and along shorelines. Since sediment , carries phosphorus, soil erosion is a significant source of phosphorus in developed watersheds, such as roofs and driveways.

Once polluted, recovery of a lake is extremely slow. Unlike rivers and streams, lakes are slow to exchange their water, and the amount of phosphorus entering a lake from its watershed remains relatively constant. Water quality will not improve until specific actions are taken to reduce sources of phosphorus in the watershed.

This diagram shows how buffer strips along lakes and streams protect water quality. Without a buffer strip, surface wafer accumulates rapidly and carries phosphorus directly into the lake A densely vegetated buffer strip retains and filters water, and transmits it to the lakes as groundwater which contains little phosphorus.

KICKING THE HABIT

Obviously, it is not possible to maintain all watersheds in a pristine, undisturbed state. But the impacts of land use on water quality can be dramatically reduced if everyone cooperates. It is the cumulative effect of many people living, working, and playing in the watershed that contributes to changes in water quality over time. Consequently, only by changing or breaking old bad habits can we lessen our impact on water quality, by learning to live in a more equal partnership with nature and her resources.

 

FOR YOUR LAKE'S SAKE 

 

What can be done? Everyone can contribute by following the suggestions listed below. The goal is to preserve or mimic as many natural processes in the watershed as possible; let nature do the purification which it does so well. For example, leave buffer strips along the edges of lakes, tributary streams, and seasonal intermittent streams or plant vegetation which will slow surface runoff; minimize disturbance of natural soil, direct surface run-off into natural depressions where the water can seep into the ground slowly, and keep use of chemicals and other harmful substances which cannot be removed by nature to a minimum.

 

1. SITE DISTURBANCE, YARD WORK, CLEARING, LANDSCAPING

DO keep site disturbance to a minimum, especially removal of natural vegetation and exposure of bare soil. (Dunes City does have development ordinances around Woahink and Siltcoos Lakes).

REASON Site disturbance dramatically increases surface run-off and erosion contributes phosphorus to lakes.

DO seed and mulch bare soil within two weeks of clearing and install hay bales down slope of cleared areas.

REASON Hay bales trap sediments and the phosphorus they carry.

DO leave naturally vegetated areas (buffer strips) along lake shores, streambeds, road ditches, intermittent streams. Leave at least 25 feet of undisturbed buffer, with more on poor soils or steep slopes.

REASON Buffer strips intercept run-off and filter sediment and phosphorus from water before it reaches the lake or stream.

DO plant deep-rooted, woody vegetation along lake shores, streambeds, road ditches.

REASON Plant roots stabilized shoreline, prevent erosion, and take up nutrients carried by water before they reach the lake.

DO preserve natural topography and natural drainage systems.

REASON Natural drainage systems evolve over years and effectively control sediment and phosphorus.

DO use fertilizer sparingly and in multiple applications. Hay mulch is preferable.

REASON Solid, inorganic fertilizers are readily dissolved by water and transported in run-0ff.

DON'T use herbicides and pesticides in excess on your garden and lawn. Avoid their use if possible.

REASON Many of these products are toxic and can get into the water.

DON'T put leaves, branches or any kind of organic matter into the lake.

REASON Plant debris adds phosphorus and other nutrients directly to the lake.

2. SHORE FRONTAGE 

DO leave existing rocks in place along shore. Add rip rap if erosion control is necessary.

REASON Large rocks are the most effective buffer against erosion because they diffuse wave action.

DO minimize shoreline alteration, such as removal of vegetation, construction of piers, breakwaters, etc. (Shoreline alteration requires permit from City, County and/or State).

REASON Shorelines are generally stable due to years of wind and wave action. Alteration of the natural shoreline destabilizes the shoreline increases erosion and impairs fish and wildlife habitat.

3. TREE CUTTING, FORESTRY DO leave trees along the shoreline or stream front. Consult laws before cutting; harvesting limitations may apply. REASON Trees and natural cover best protect against shoreline erosion and sedimentation of lakes. Trees take years to grow and only minutes to cut down.

DO check sludge level in septic tank every year. Pump when sludge fills half of the tank (average is every 2-3 years for year-round residents, 5-6 years for seasonal residents. REASON Septic systems must be maintained if they are to function properly. If settled solids are not removed from the tank, they will wash into and clog the drain-field. DO conserve water, and give the septic system time to `rest' after heavy use. REASON The less water you use, the better your septic system will work. DON'T flush strong cleaning agents (drain cleaner, bleach) into your septic system. REASON Septic tanks are living systems. Strong cleaners kill the microorganisms that break down the waste DON'T flush cigarette butts, paper towels, etc. down the toilet. REASON These items fill up the septic tank quickly and cannot be broken down by microorganisms.

4. SEPTIC TANKS

DON'T install or use an in-sink garbage disposal. REASON Ground up gargabe overburdens your septic tank and slows it functions. DON'T use commercial products that claim to clean your septic tank without pumping. REASON These products can cause clogging of your drain-field and many contain chemicals which can contaminate groundwater.

DON'T put paint or chemicals into the septic system. REASON These hazardous products kill microorganisms in the septic tank, and contaminate drinking and lakewater.

5. DETERGENTS DO use non phosphate detergents REASON Phosphate detergents add more phosphorus to the lake, and thus contribute to algal growth,.

6. SURFACE RUN-OFF FROM DEVELOPED AREAS (Driveways, Roofs, Lawns)

	DO prevent water from running directly into lakes and streams. Detain in depressions or divert flow to flat, wooded areas. REASON Flowing water carries sediment and phosphorus. Detaining or dispersing water allows it to filter into the soil where sediment and phosphorus are filtered out.		DON'T wash cars near lakes, streams, or drainage ditches. REASON Run-off containing phosphorus will put phosphorus directly into the water. Run-off should be diverted to vegetated surfaces and allowed to seep into the ground where phosphorus can be removed.
7. ROADS
DO plant vegetative buffer strips along roads and stabilize road ditches by seeding or rip rapping. REASON Plants slow run-off from roads and help to remove sediment and phosphorus before they reach lakes or streams.		DON'T allow water to run directly off roads into lakes or streams. REASON Water running off roads contains sediment, phosphorus, and pollutants from cars.

8. STRUCTURES (Houses, Decks, Sheds)

 

DON'T build close to the water.

REASON Shoreline disturbance (Dunes City Ordinances.) dramatically increases sedimentation of the lakes.

9. FILL / DREDGE

DON'T fill or dredge unless necessary. Both activities require a permit from the State Lands Division. REASON Filling and dredging stir up sediment and impair natural habitat

10. STORAGE OF HAZARDOUS MATERIALS

DO store hazardous materials in a contained area REASON Containment prevents in a contained area. contamination of water supplies and lake waters by undetected leaks.. DON'T dispose of paint thinners on the ground REASON These products can or chemical products can contaminate groundwater and lake water.

 

GUIDELINES FOR BUILDING PERMIT APPLICATIONS

 

Every application shall:

1.) Identify and describe the work to be covered by the permit.

2.) Identify the property on which the proposed work is to be done by Tax Parcel Number and street address.

3.) Indicate the use or occupancy for which the proposed structure is intended.

4.) Be accompanied by two sets of plans, diagrams, specifications and, where required by the Building Official, structural calculations. Plans for new buildings and major additions shall include building plan, elevations, sections, foundation and structural details. The requirement for submission of plans and specifications may be waived by the Building Official if he finds the nature of the work covered by the Building Permit is such that reviewing of plans is not necessary to insure code compliance.

5.) For new buildings and major additions to existing buildings two copies of a site plan shall be submitted. The site plan shall:

a. Be drawn to scale and show building location, property dimensions, setbacks from all property lines, streams and lakes.

b. Indicate location of existing and new septic and water systems on the property and within 100 feet on adjoining properties.

c. Show any trees to be removed within public rights of way or Shoreland Zones. (See additional Permits required below).

d. Generally show existing and new grading contours, floor elevations and storm water disposal system. Show location of any existing wetlands on the property.

e. In the case of buildings built on or within 50' of slopes exceeding 12% show details of the disposal system for storm water from roofs, driveways and other paved areas. Storm water shall not be discharged directly onto such slopes or concentrated in pipes and discharged onto such slopes. Submissions shall show grading which will allow storm water to be absorbed without causing erosion or disposed of through the use of dry wells, drain fields or a combination thereof.

f. In the case of buildings constructed on slopes exceeding 1290, or in Shoreland Zones or where construction of building will cause a removal of vegetation in such areas the Site Plan or written material shall indicate a plan, the method and time schedule for re-landscaping. (See additional Permits required below).

6.) State valuation of the proposed work.

7.) Give such other information as may be required by the Building Official. 

8.)  Be signed by the permitee or his or her agent.

PERMITS THAT MAY BE REQUIRED FOR YOUR PROJECT:

SEPTIC SYSTEM (Lane Co.)   ELECTRICAL (State - Lane Co) ROAD ACCESS (Lane Co)  ROAD CONSTRUCTION (Dunes city) GRADING & EXCAVATION (City Ord.) TREE REMOVAL (Dunes City)  CONDITIONAL USE PERMIT (Docks, Mobiles, Other See Zoning Ord.) VARIANCE (Construction in Shoreland, other See Zoning Ord) MOBILE HOME PERMIT BUILDING PERMIT SITE REVIEW (Slope exceeding12%, other See Ord.)

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Information for this document was provided with the help of the following:

DELL ISHAM, Former Manager of Devils Lake Water Improvement District

Oregon State University Extension Office

Roger Robertson, Media Specialist & Consultant

BIBLIOGRAPHY FOR CHAPTER I